Paul SellersDate of publication
Title : LIVE Q\u0026A - Listening to the tools | Paul Sellers
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Hi Paul, I noticed that you took a drink from a mason jar, is this a habit you developed in Texas. Not that I think this is wrong or anything, but strange that's all, considering you are in England. I drink apple pie from a mason, because it feels right to do so. stupid question no 1.
Most drills do create a hole slightly oversize. Make sure your drill tip is ground accurately, because if the chisel point is not centered the drill will run out and will create an oversized hole. Thinning the web also helps, and make sure that both of your edges are cut at the same angle and the same length. Grinding a slight 45° angle at the outer margins of the cutting edges of the drill can also help steer the drill centered but the 45s should be ground accurately and evenly. I definitely would recommend spotting your holes before you drill them. I found Brad point drills to work quite well in many species of wood and I work with a lot of very hard, resonant, hardwoods
The sounds of a tool in the workpiece, in machining metals, is the MOST informative reaction of the tool, workpiece, fixturing (work holding), and machine. Loud harmonics, resonances, are almost always indicating a problem, and can be potentially resolved by numerous changes, some are small tweaks, some are more significant issues, and some are resolved by changes in geometry, material, or the physics of the interface between the tool and workpiece. I am finding, now that I am back working with woods (many domestic and exotic hardwoods, often figured hardwoods, and often very resonant hardwoods) I'm finding many of the same principles apply.
In regard to spokeshaves, I think that once everything is working then the brand doesn't matter.
I have a £5 Silverline spokeshave from Amazon, and a vintage Stanley, and I really can't tell the difference between them now. Once you flatten the surfaces, and sharpen the blade, they should all work pretty much the same. Except for maybe the size of the mouth, but even that you can probably change by filing the mouth or the bed to slightly change the angle of the blade.
I did a lot of tweaking and filing to the Silverline when I got it first and it made it much better.
Then a few weeks later I got the Stanley from ebay expecting it to be infinitely better again, because it was Stanley, and because it was vintage. So I cleaned it up a little, and it was worse than the Silverline. It felt rough and had a lot of chatter. So I went at it again, and flattened the bed and the sole and now I can't tell the difference between the two.
A spokeshave is basically just a piece of metal and a blade so might be up to you to make it flat and smooth.
Paul, thank you for making the video's. I enjoy watching them. I been a woodworker for 40 years here in the U.S. . like you , I love using hand tools over power tools. There was a question about using corrugated woodplanes over smooth woodplanes. I have never used corrugated plane's. I have a few that were made in the early 1900s by stanley and sargent. My thoughts on this was the same as your's. Wood shavings getting cought in the grooves. I thought about tuning my #7C Stanley and using it. After watching this show reaffirmed that i should not use it. Thanks again for a great show.
Thank you. I’m new to woodworking and greatly appreciate the knowledge you give. I had purchased a $20 plane, spent hours attempting to initialize. Happened across a garage sale with a gem, I believe it to be a Stanley No. 5 from the late 1940’s to the early 60’s. I may have spent nearly as much time to initialize but the result in comparison is amazing. I also purchased a Lie-Nielsen large router plane, looking forward to that but I’m not quite to that part of the work bench yet. Thanks again!
the questions about the plane blade moving- i think it has also to do a little in part with slop on the adjustment screw of what i'm assuming is a cheaper plane like the one i use. When retracting the blade i always turn the screw back to extending it only by a little, that way the blade is registering with the adjustment lever and nothing seems to shift after that.
I've been barely a mediocre woodworker (and thusly, not very interested) for decades. I stumbled upon one of your videos a few weeks ago, and I want to thank you for the clarity you've given me. Not only have I discovered a new joy, I've been able to build and repair several things around my house to make my life easier.
Now I just need to get control of my tool lust...
What an absolutely awful headmaster you must have had! A headmaster or teacher must never ever tell a kid or his/hers parents what the kid cannot do. You always focus on what they are good at and keep encouraging the positive things they are doing.
In reality you really don't know what a person can or cannot do but if you manage to put into someones head that there is something he/she cannot do they will never try.
I checked the teeth on a 100 year old Disston rip saw and I noticed that the they are not level. There is a slight bulge or arc in the middle. Wear would seem to produce the opposite. A local saw sharpening master said that this is called "crown" and rip saws had this design until about 1950, and this was better. Your thoughts?
It’s so true what you say about only really needing a no 4 and maybe a number 5 or 5 1/2. Over the years I’ve acquired most of the bench planes from 3 to 8, but time and again I gravitate to my favourite no4, no 5 and no 5 1/2. They do everything I need, including stock preparation. I like having the others, but they are only occasionally used - I can’t justify their existence really. Nevertheless I’m not ready part with them just yet!
38" high bench is interesting. I usually see people make theirs much shorter. I'm fairly tall (6'1") and I made my bench 36", now I'm wondering how tall Paul is. If I'd made my bench height the way Chris Schwarz recommends, it'd only be about 32", which I don't think I would like.
Hi Paul, I just want to say, I enjoy your videos and I tend to learn quite a bit sometimes to my surprise! You remind me of my late dad, I wish he could see how far along my carpentry has come in the last 11 years!
Cheers for putting our enjoyable, entertaining, educational content :)
Really from either direction the harmonics are created. The only difference is the frequency of the vibration and whether it's detectable to the human ear. Restricting the fibers in the vice sets up a frequency change, but doesn't eliminate it; rather, it changes which side of the compressed fibers has a greater frequency of vibration. Even with a lubricant, the act of moving the plane against the end-grain of the wood creates a vibration of some frequency. If it did not, you wouldn't hear the two interacting items (metal on wood grain), which we've come to associate as a pleasant - or at least tolerable - scraping or "whooshing" sound. The higher-pitched the "squeal", the greater the frequency of vibration.
I'd also bet that if you raised the wood up higher in the vice, the frequency of pitch (pun intended) would be lower, but still annoying!
Almost all the problems people have cutting either with a tablesaw or handsaw have to do with asking the tool to cut faster than it is able. A dull blade will not cut faster if you push a bit more but it WILL kickback and hurt you. Sharp tools rule and make happy tools.
Listening to tools is something I have been teaching to the young magician I am mentoring and allowing to use my shop in exchange for cleanup and helping hands when I have a large wood purchase to do. Especially in power tools this becomes VERY important because asking a power tool to work harder than it is able will undoubtedly create problem and safety issues. Excellent vid.
I've always known that squealing is related to clamping, but you've made me think more deeply about it Paul. I'm not sure it's about harmonics (which are frequency multiples caused by distortion) but rather the natural frequency of vibration of the workpiece, which depends on stiffness, which depends on how it is clamped. I think squealing occurs when the thing that causes the vibration - friction, like with a violin bow - is made worse by the vibration it is causing. A vicious circle. When you are planing far from the vice, the wood is flexible and it is easy to start this vicious circle of vibration. So if you plane towards the vice, you get the squealing started and it continues through the stroke. But when you plane away from the vice, you are starting at a point where the wood is tightly held so the vibration doesn't have chance to get going. If this is correct, then we should plane endgrain away from the vice for a better finish (or use a shooting board, which stops the job from vibrating). Or deal with the friction as you have shown with the oil.